Vintage reissue watches are nothing new these days, with examples like the Omega 1957 Trilogy and Zenith Revival series creating near 1:1 recreations of their forebears from the 1950s and 1960s. However, it’s not often that bracelets are created to emulate their vintage equivalents, even less so when it comes to creating bracelets that still feel as if they were made in the 1960s but with modern manufacturing techniques.
Uncle Seiko’s flat link 1035 bracelet is exactly that – a bracelet designed not only to look like a vintage bracelet, but also to feel like a mint condition Omega 1035 flat link bracelet.
History
The flat link bracelet, specifically the 1035 which this US1035 is based on, has its origins in the 1960s – usually found on the Speedmaster. Lately however, the flat link bracelet has seen a bit of a renaissance with the release of the:
- 2014 Omega Seamaster 300 (Ref. 233.30.41.21.01.001)
- 2017 Omega 1957 Trilogy Edition Speedmaster, Railmaster & Seamaster 300
- 2019 Speedmaster 50th anniversary (Ref. 310.20.42.50.01.001)
- 2020 Ed White (Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)
While the 2019 Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary brought back the flat link bracelet on a more modern Speedmaster case with the twisted lugs, this limited edition of 6,969 pieces didn’t pass the bracelet on to regular production Speedmasters. The updated 20201 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch instead opted for the bracelet design from the 50th Anniversary Moonshine Gold Speedmaster.
Omega Bracelet Options
In modern times, Omega has never really given its customers an option on bracelets, unlike Rolex which as of 2021 offers Jubilee or Oyster bracelets as options on the Datejust, Sky Dweller, and GMT Master II.
Enter Uncle Seiko. Originally founded to provide recreations of vintage Seiko bracelets, he has since then branched into making faithful replacements of vintage Omega bracelets. The interesting thing about Uncle Seiko bracelets is that he resists the temptation to reimagine them with modern build standards – solid end links, tight tolerances, screw fixed links, heavy construction and milled out clasps – instead these are more comparable to a perfectly preserved, unworn mint condition version of the original bracelets they’re inspired on.
To put it more simply, these bracelets are purposefully made to not only look vintage, but also to feel vintage. For some this may seem like a deterrent, but for those getting a replacement for their vintage watches – it means they can keep it feeling as true as possible to match their watch. Also, the lighter construction especially in terms of the clasp and link construction means that it changes the balance of the watch overall, and makes it feel lighter on the wrist. Lastly, while hollow endlinks may seem archaic – their flexible nature means that these bracelets can be easily adapted to other Omega watches that aren’t the classic Moonwatch – such as my Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Diver. So while Omega currently only gives you one bracelet option per model in its collection, Uncle Seiko opens a world of possibilities that seamlessly integrate with, and completely change the look of your Omega.
Buying an Uncle Seiko Flat Link Bracelet
If I’m being honest, I was skeptical before buying this Uncle Seiko flat link bracelet. I love modern bracelets, I like the quality feel, the weight, the solidity, and the trigger release clasp with tool free extension on my Seamaster 300M has left me pretty spoiled. But on the other hand, Omega doesn’’t appear to have an OEM flat link bracelet to fit my Seamster (most of them are 19mm or 21mm, and all have solid end links moulded for cases other than the 41mm SMPC).
I should point out that between the descriptions on the site and his Instagram, Uncle Seiko makes it very clear what you get, and why. This is something I really admire – the transparency of recognizing that vintage feel isn’t for everyone, and the commitment to a concept – in this case commitment to proper recreations of vintage bracelets in both look and feel.
So I went for it, paid my $89.00 plus shipping, AND the near 60% import taxes on delivery to India. And I have to say, I’m glad I took that leap of faith. After some trial and error with some pliers and lots of tape, I managed to get the endlinks to perfectly fit my Seamaster, and a few minutes later I had hammered out a few pins to get the bracelet fitting just right – the end result is..wow.
That whole thing about comfort makes a lot more sense on the wrist. Right now I live in India, its nearly 40°C, its way too hot to wear a heavy screw fixed bracelet with a clasp that could take down the Titanic. The way the links are sized, combined with so much adjustability on the links and clasp means I’ve got it at that goldilocks fit in a way not even the quick adjustment on my Omega clasp could achieve.
This is all before we talk about how good this bracelet looks. It completely changes the personality of the SMP300M. The standard James Bond Seamaster bracelet is extremely versatile – that and maybe the Jubilee are probably the only two bracelets that can genuinely straddle the line between dress bracelet and sports bracelet without any compromise.
This flat link bracelet definitely adds a bit more utility to the look of the Seamsater, it brings it back to its roots as a tool watch. The irony is that this generation of Seamaster was never designed for the flat link bracelet – the closest we got was the Seamaster 300M GMT (Ref. 2534.50) which occasionally was found on the three plus two link design from the now discontinued Speedmaster Moonwatch. And despite never being designed for it, the polished, twisted lugs of the Seamster cascade into the polished outer links almost perfectly – as if they were always meant to be.
Pros
Pivoting endlink & Easily adjustable
You may need a few tools to achieve it, but the design of the Uncle Seiko US1035 bracelet makes it very easy to get the perfect fit on your wrist. The pivoting end link allows the bracelet to drop right down along your wrist instead of flaring out like most solid end link examples, while the tapering and shorter links closer to the clasp allow plenty of prescision when removing links.
Lastly, the clasp itself features 6 anchoring points, and both ends of the bracelet can be adjusted with these – so if you can’t get the perfect fit by removing links, the clasp based micro adjustments will finish the job.
Comfort & flexibility on the wrist
Authenticity and honoring the original may be a large motivator for making a bracelet closer to vintage construction vs the bracelets modern manufacturers are making, but Uncle Seiko also puts a lot of emphasis on comfort too. The reality is that modern bracelets are heavy, and inflexible – it gives a great sense of quality and solidity but not much in the way of comfort and flexibility.
The shorter links mean there are more links along the bracelet, more links mean more articulation and a more fluid feel on the wrist – closer to a leather or a fabric strap than a modern bracelet. Also, by having a lighter bracelet it means that it doesn’t way down on your wrist as much – something that becomes much more apparent in hotter climates.
Finishing and Quality
Compared to the hundreds, or in some cases thousands, of dollars that OEM bracelets cost; expectations aren’t particularly high for a bracelet that costs $89.00. Luckily though, Uncle Seiko clearly knows that and goes well beyond those expectations. The polished surfaces catch the light as you rotate your wrist, meanwhile the brushing is uniform and provides a great contrast to the outer links.
At this price point one could be forgiven for having a standardized clasp that doesn’t mirror the finishing pattern of the bracelet (Uncle Seiko does also offer a fully brushed version of this bracelet) however you’ll be presently surprised to find that the clasp also features a contrasting polished line on either side, with a raised, brushed center to match the rest of the bracelet. Little details like this are what make the difference between a reasonably priced bracelet and a cheap bracelet – this firmly asserts itself as the former.
Cons
Before getting into the negatives of this bracelet, it’s important to give some context. This bracelet was purposefully built to feel like a vintage bracelet. For better and for worse it goes against what we expect of a bracelet made in the 2020s, so to expect modern construction is kind of missing the point. That being said, here are a few of those aspects that might be deal breakers for some.
Rickety feel
While the US1035 offers plenty of options to achieve the perfect, most precise, fit on the wrist, if you’re someone that wears their watch on the looser side then prepare for a lot of movement and a lot of jangling. The more flexible construction makes itself much more apparent when loosely fitted and coupled with a heavier more modern watch will mean you may find yourself constantly correcting where your watch is along your arm.
Hollow endlink
It may offer flexibility and adaptability when it comes to retrofitting it to watches other than the Moonwatch, but hollow end links don’t always have the most seamless fit. For those that are used to that laser precise match between a case and endlink, be prepared to do some tinkering from time to time and avoid putting those endlinks under a lot of pressure when off the watch as they will bend and deform if you’re not careful. In this sense hollow end links are like a manual wind watch – if you put in the work it’s rewarding but if you’re careless or just don’t want to think about it then get a bracelet with solid end links.
It should be noted that at the time of writing this, Uncle Seiko’s Instagram has made a few posts showing that he’s working on solid end links for some of his bracelets.
Friction fit clasp
Friction fit clasps in modern times are often the first sign of cost cutting, and for those used to modern push button clasps this will stand out right way. Between the lighter construction, and the fact that friction fit clasps require you to use a fair amount of force to release them, it just doesn’t inspire confidence and if you’ve just cut your nails then taking off your watch may not be the most enjoyable experience either.
Conclusion
Like collecting watches in general, buying a bracelet like this goes against most people’s initial logic. Why would I buy a new bracelet that feels like one from 40 years ago? And for some, that logic will hold even when you have it in hand; but for collectors that have a more open mind and that appreciate a different way of doing things, as well as the added benefit of more comfort – especially in hot weather – then look no further.
The Uncle Seiko US1035 completely changes the look and feel of any Speedmaster or Seamatser with a 19 or 20mm lug spacing in a way that no OEM Omega Bracelet can offer, and in a way that an equivalent genuine vintage Omega bracelet will cost you several hundreds (if not a few thousand) dollars.
Uncle Seiko knows exactly what he’s doing with making his bracelets like he does, and he stays true to the concept through and through. It also doesn’t hurt that part of the proceeds go to charity as well. So for a reasonable price, getting a great looking bracelet that’s comfortable, well finished, distinctive, has a story and purpose behind it, AND helps a good cause? I can look past a friction fit clasp for that.