Design & History
Aside from being founded over 100 years ago, what do Breitling and Bentley have in common? Both brands have made a name for themselves by starting as performance machines and then blending that performance heritage with luxury trimmings.
In the 1940s, Bentley was being reinvented as a luxury car after its racing days in the ’20s and ’30s. Meanwhile, Willy Breitling recognized the need for escapism and created the original premier line as a dedicated luxury watch separate from his tool oriented Chronomat collection. And it was this that formed the basis for the reborn premier line launched in 2018.
As such both have managed to bridge the gap between luxury and performance, offering maximum opulence without being outmatched by competitors on a technical front. And while the two brands have been partnering since 2003, the ultimate expression of that relationship was released in 2019 to celebrate Bentley’s 100th birthday, the Breitling Premier for Bentley Centenary.
Unlike past Breitling for Bentley models which were their own collection, this is a limited edition of Breitling’s 42mm Premier B01, graced with an unvarnished burlwood dial meant to evoke Bentley’s own wooden veneers, with additional subtle touches nodding to its relationship with the British manufacturer.
On the wrist
On the wrist, the Breitling Premier for Bentley benefits from George Kern’s mission to rehabilitate the stereotype of Breitling only making big, ostentatious watches. At 42mm but with relatively short lugs it easily fits on most wrists, and the 13.1mm height will allow it to slip under most jacket and shirt sleeves.
The high polish bracelet is extremely comfortable and the links can be removed with screws. For more precise sizing the clasp features micro-adjustment points ensuring that you get the perfect fit. the clasp itself requires two stages to open, making it much more secure than a conventional friction fit.
The beauty of the Premier though is its versatility, with this Bentley edition’s wooden dial allowing it to further tread the line between casual and formal, and its 100m water resistance making it a perfectly comfortable beach and pool watch as well.
Technical Specifications
On the inside is Breitling’s flagship caliber – the B01. Originally released in 2012 in the Chronomat, the B01 has been the backbone of Breitling’s in house calibers and even powers Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono.
Like all modern Breitlings it is chronometer certified, in addition to featuring a two register chronograph layout operated via vertical clutch and column wheel with an engagement that feels like a perfectly executed shift in a manual transmission.
The B01 provides noticeable feedback as you wind it towards its 70-hour power reserve, and pulling the crown out further leads you to a quickset date and hacking seconds.
Finish and details
Unlike past Breitling for Bentley models where co-branding and additional details were turned up to 11, the centenary edition is relatively discrete in its execution, allowing you to soak it in as a whole.
The plaque on the side not only says Bentley, but it’s also been engine turned to match the dashboard of Bentleys specced with aluminum trim. This type of finish also draws a parallel to the engine turning found on watch movements – another nod to the synergies of the two brands.
Then, of course, there’s the dial itself, of course, its made of wood, but every dial has its own pattern and imperfections across it – meaning that each unit in this limited edition of 1000 pieces is unique in the appearance of its dial – much like many Bentleys are uniquely built to customer specifications.
Aside from the Bentley touches the premier line also boasts statuesque deco-inspired indices and a deeply knurled crown proudly wearing the Breitling B logo. Meanwhile, the contrasting registers in black are the first indication that this Breitling holds a manufacture caliber – while other Valjoux 7750 equipped Premiers will have matching subregisters.
It may have taken them 16 years to achieve it, but this is the ultimate expression of the similarities between Breitling and Bentley. Two brands that had their origins in performance but managed to transition into luxury without compromising their technical capacity. With a W12 in the Bentley and the B01 in the Premier neither will be embarrassed next to a more focused competitor, while both brands can offer versatility and opulence without a hint of compromise.
